FOOD FRIDAY!

PERUVIAN SHRIMP SOUP

I had this dish for the first time just earlier this year, and my immediate reaction was, "where have you been all my life?" Generally, I think soup is OK, but when I'm hungry it isn't the first thing that comes to my mind. When I think of this wonderment, though, my mouth waters. It's one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten. It's billed as a soup, but it's really more of a thick chowder.

I learned of it purely by chance from Frank and Rick, our haircut guys. One of Frank's daughters-in-law, a relative newcomer to the family, is from Peru and an excellent cook. She is making it her business to introduce her new American clan to the culinary specialties of her country. At haircut time, the four of us generally just blab away, laughing a lot, at nothing very important. Like just about everything else we talk about, Frank mentioned this soup purely in passing, on his way to something else, but I stopped him. "Shrimp soup? Peruvian?" This I had to learn about. When I got them to land on this subject for a minute or two, Frank and Rick went on and on about how good it was. They left, and I headed straight to google. I came up with this recipe and passed it by Frank, who in turn showed it to his daughter-in-law. Bingo. This is exactly the way she makes it. (Oh. She leaves out the cheese. I don't know why. Believe me, make it with the cheese.)

NOTES: Aji panca, aji amarillo and queso fresco can be found at Hispanic markets and at well-stocked supermarkets. In the supermarket, look for the pastes in glass jars in the foreign foods section. Even though they are "chili pastes," they pack very little heat, so fear not if you don't like spicy food. Again, in the supermarket, the cheese will be in the specialty dairy case. If you can't find queso fresco, American cream cheese is a reasonable facsimile, though richer. Unless you make this dish constantly (you may!), or prepare Latin American cuisine regularly, the pastes will last you a very long time. Refrigerate them after using.

2 lbs. shrimp with shells (and heads, if possible, for stock)
4 cups water (more if necessary)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon aji panca chili paste (can substitute tomato paste if necessary)
1 teaspoon aji amarillo chili paste
1 cup peas either fresh or frozen
1/4 cup long-grain white rice
1-2 ear of corn, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
1 lb russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
1 teaspoon salt (to taste)
1 cup evaporated milk
1/2 lb. queso fresco (mexican farmer cheese), cut into small dice
1 tablespoon fresh oregano chopped
3 eggs
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Remove heads and shells from shrimp, and refrigerate the shrimp. Make a shrimp stock by putting shells and heads in a medium saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 15 minutes.

While shells are simmering, heat the olive oil in a large flameproof casserole over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring. Stir in the aji panca (or tomato paste) and aji amarillo pastes. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue cooking, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until onion is softened.

Purée shrimp shells and cooking liquid. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl and reserve the liquid (discard solids). Measure out the liquid and add enough water to make 4 cups.

Add shrimp broth to onion mixture and bring to a boil. Stir in peas, rice and corn chunks. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

Add potatoes and salt. Continue cooking until potatoes and rice are just tender (approx 10 minutes more). Add shrimp, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until shrimp is just cooked through, about 4 minutes (shrimp should be pink). Add evaporated milk and cheese, stir until cheese melts. Taste for seasoning, add salt and pepper if needed.

With the soup at a low simmer, crack the eggs into it, spacing them so they remain separate. Simmer until eggs are firm.

Leave pot on burner but turn off heat. Stir in cilantro, cover pot and allow flavors to mingle before serving.